  FP Journe boutique direttore Michelle Yeterian con un cliente.Avanti nella mia serie di visite a negozi di orologi di punta a New York City è la boutique FP Journe a 721 Madison. Vorrei ringraziare il sorprendente regista boutique Michelle Yeterian per il tempo di mostrarmi alcuni pezzi sorprendenti.Uno di questi pezzi è stata la splendida Octa Sport in titanio. orologi sportivi Dressy sono l'ultima cosa da indossare con giacca e cravatta, e l'elegante Octa Sport è perfetto per questo, con il prestigio di una complicazione FP Journe unita ad una estetica moderna. Il caso è titanio grado 5, quindi l'orologio è estremamente leggero e indossabile. Il movimento e il quadrante sono realizzati in una lega di alluminio (con pesi tungsteno sul rotore), pertanto l'orologio pesa soltanto 60 grammi su una cinghia e 70 grammi su un braccialetto.  Lo Sport FP Journe Octa.  Bracciale della FP Journe Octa Sport, in titanio, con inserti in gomma.Ho anche avuto la possibilità di guardare la serie Octa con quadranti in oro massiccio. I numeri d'oro sono essenzialmente scavate dell'oro e lucidato a specchio. Le mani d'oro sono le mani più elegantemente rastremato in tutta dell'orologeria. I movimenti sono fatti anche di oro rosa 18 carati. I quadranti d'oro sono presenti sul Chronomètre Souverain, il Octa Réserve e la Octa Lune, che sono disponibili solo nelle 10 boutique FP Journe.  Il movimento del Octa Réserve è in oro massiccio, tra cui un rotore in oro 22k.Il Tourbillon Anniversaire è stato anche in mostra presso la boutique, con le sue belle linee semplici e splendidamente inciso fondello con il numero di serie di primo piano nel mezzo.  | ||
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giovedì 24 novembre 2016
NYC Boutique Visita: FP Journe su Madison
giovedì 17 novembre 2016
First-look: The Bell & Ross BR-X1 Carbon Forgé
La
Bell & Ross BR-X1 Carbon Forge è un esempio di Bell & Ross
dimostrando la loro capacità di fascia alta orologeria tecnica. Ma anche se questo orologio si allontana dal loro credo della semplicità - è ancora inconfondibilmente un Bell & Ross.
Il mondo orologio, come ogni industria leggera, è guidato dalle tendenze. E la Bell & Ross BR-X1 Carbon Forge è un orologio che zecche due grandi scatole tendenza attuale: quadrante scheletrato - controllare. caso Carbon - controllare.
Il BR-X1 è il Bell & Ross BR01 su 'roids, o come Carlos Rosillo dirla in maniera più diplomatica, "il più estremo esempio di Bell & Ross' iconica forma, quadrata". Ma oltre ad essere un significa guardare pezzo di orologio, il caso BR-X1 Bell & Ross in mostra la versatilità della forma quadrata classica.
Sul Forgé Carbon la cassa di 45 mm è realizzato da un carbonio pressata, piuttosto che le fibre più tradizionali di carbonio stratificate siamo più familiarità con il mondo dell'orologio. Questo particolare materiale è utilizzato principalmente in applicazioni aerospaziali, ed è un bel circolarità che è in gran parte utilizzato dalla società francese Dassault Aviation, partner e collaboratori frequenti con Bell & Ross.
A parte il attraente, aspetto marmorizzato del materiale è super leggero e super resistente ai graffi. Di per sé questo caso sarebbe interessante, ma non particolarmente notevole. Bell & Ross hanno preso a calci su una tacca con l'aggiunta di un 'bumper' (proprio come sul vecchio iPhone). La cassa è circondato con una fascia di protezione in ceramica e gomma. Io non sono convinto circa l'efficacia di questo paraurti come un dispositivo di protezione contro gli urti (impatto dovrebbe essere direttamente sul lato della cassa, il che è improbabile al polso. Ma non si può negare che sembra freddo.
L'altro, e molto più pratico vantaggio di questo caso è che i pulsanti del cronografo sono state coperte con gli attuatori gomma e ceramica, cambiando totalmente il modo di azionare il cronografo, da un movimento di spinta per un movimento più leva-like. E 'uno stile di attuatore non si vede troppo spesso (Graham sono l'esempio più noto), e l'azione è molto confortevole.
La costruzione altamente tecnica non si esaurisce con il caso. Il quadrante è circa per quanto è possibile ottenere dal solito Bell & Ross semplicità. Il quadrante è colorato in cristallo minerale, che espone il quadrante scheletrato.
Restate sintonizzati per le immagini più vivo. vedere di piu orologi replica e Replica Rolex Day Date
Il mondo orologio, come ogni industria leggera, è guidato dalle tendenze. E la Bell & Ross BR-X1 Carbon Forge è un orologio che zecche due grandi scatole tendenza attuale: quadrante scheletrato - controllare. caso Carbon - controllare.
Il BR-X1 è il Bell & Ross BR01 su 'roids, o come Carlos Rosillo dirla in maniera più diplomatica, "il più estremo esempio di Bell & Ross' iconica forma, quadrata". Ma oltre ad essere un significa guardare pezzo di orologio, il caso BR-X1 Bell & Ross in mostra la versatilità della forma quadrata classica.
Sul Forgé Carbon la cassa di 45 mm è realizzato da un carbonio pressata, piuttosto che le fibre più tradizionali di carbonio stratificate siamo più familiarità con il mondo dell'orologio. Questo particolare materiale è utilizzato principalmente in applicazioni aerospaziali, ed è un bel circolarità che è in gran parte utilizzato dalla società francese Dassault Aviation, partner e collaboratori frequenti con Bell & Ross.
A parte il attraente, aspetto marmorizzato del materiale è super leggero e super resistente ai graffi. Di per sé questo caso sarebbe interessante, ma non particolarmente notevole. Bell & Ross hanno preso a calci su una tacca con l'aggiunta di un 'bumper' (proprio come sul vecchio iPhone). La cassa è circondato con una fascia di protezione in ceramica e gomma. Io non sono convinto circa l'efficacia di questo paraurti come un dispositivo di protezione contro gli urti (impatto dovrebbe essere direttamente sul lato della cassa, il che è improbabile al polso. Ma non si può negare che sembra freddo.
L'altro, e molto più pratico vantaggio di questo caso è che i pulsanti del cronografo sono state coperte con gli attuatori gomma e ceramica, cambiando totalmente il modo di azionare il cronografo, da un movimento di spinta per un movimento più leva-like. E 'uno stile di attuatore non si vede troppo spesso (Graham sono l'esempio più noto), e l'azione è molto confortevole.
La costruzione altamente tecnica non si esaurisce con il caso. Il quadrante è circa per quanto è possibile ottenere dal solito Bell & Ross semplicità. Il quadrante è colorato in cristallo minerale, che espone il quadrante scheletrato.
Restate sintonizzati per le immagini più vivo. vedere di piu orologi replica e Replica Rolex Day Date
lunedì 7 novembre 2016
On The Wrist - Longines HydroConquest Chronograph XL
The HydroConquest is part of Longines's renewed push back into the sports watch arena.
They were very well known for their sports watches and sports
sponsorship in the past but had taken their focus off sports watches in
the 90s and 2000s for some reason. This doesn't mean they completely neglected the sports line. They'd just made a half arsed effort… if that.
The decision to get back into the game for sports watches in the middle of the noughties was a very welcomed move and they went all in, launching with a number of lines: Conquest, HydroConquest, Grand Vitesse and Admiral. Some of these names you've seen before while others are new lines.
I like the fact that they've come up with very classy ad distinct styling to separate the lines. They have also priced the watches extremely well, making the sports line excellent value for money when you compare them to the likes of Tag Heuer, or even their in-group offerings from Omega.
We need to keep in mind that Longines, prior to becoming part of the Swatchgroup family, was a proper watchmaking house viewed in the same vein as omega. They manufactured in-house movements and were highly respected. Not that they're not respected nowadays but the intra-group structure kinda dictated their positioning…
This particular HydroConquest is rarely seen, possibly due to its size but I'll get to that in a minute. This line is in my opinion the sportiest in styling out of all the Sports collections, but having said that it is still quite versatile, as Longines has managed to add elegance to their sports, which makes sense in keeping with the whole “Elegance is An Attitude” thing.
The HydroConquest Chronograph XL - those two letters at the end gives the game away doesn't it? One would say that 47mm doesn't warrant the XL tag any more, but this is also quite a chunky watch, and if you fit the non-tapering stainless steel bracelet to it, you could almost use it to tone your muscles. But size aside the overall proportion of the watch is excellent. This is also partly due to the use of the Valjoux 7753 movement, (a tri-compax version of the 7750) giving the dial much needed balance. And the way the lugs are shaped it sits very nicely on smaller wrists. It will look big, but it won't feel like you've strapped a clock/dinner plate onto your wrist.
Speaking of 7753 movements there are a couple of gripes I have with this movement. One, the crown to hand turning ratio is not very high, (setting the time, for example) even compared to the 7750! It's like riding a bike on the highest gear. You get calluses on your thumb and forefinger from winding the crown so much and yet the hands don't seem to have moved any closer to the desired time.
Two, the external pusher needed to change the date at 9:00 position. Why? What's wrong with 2 positions on the crown? Surely moving a subdial from 12:00 to 3:00 position doesn't warrant that many changes? But, to be fair, you'll only notice this if you don't wear the watch every day... If it's a daily watch then none of this would've mattered... Other than that, it's an extremely reliable movement. It's tough and will last a lifetime provided you take good care of it. I also have no doubts regarding its accuracy. From experience even the cheapest versions of the 7750 are ridiculously accurate. If not, any good watchmaker will be able to quickly regulate it to a very high level of accuracy.
Others will say that the date window at 4:30 is neither here nor there, but this, surprisingly, doesn't bother me one bit. It's not an ideal place for it, but definite not the worst.
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The decision to get back into the game for sports watches in the middle of the noughties was a very welcomed move and they went all in, launching with a number of lines: Conquest, HydroConquest, Grand Vitesse and Admiral. Some of these names you've seen before while others are new lines.
 |
| Longines Grande Vitesse |
 |
| Longines Conquest |
I like the fact that they've come up with very classy ad distinct styling to separate the lines. They have also priced the watches extremely well, making the sports line excellent value for money when you compare them to the likes of Tag Heuer, or even their in-group offerings from Omega.
We need to keep in mind that Longines, prior to becoming part of the Swatchgroup family, was a proper watchmaking house viewed in the same vein as omega. They manufactured in-house movements and were highly respected. Not that they're not respected nowadays but the intra-group structure kinda dictated their positioning…
This particular HydroConquest is rarely seen, possibly due to its size but I'll get to that in a minute. This line is in my opinion the sportiest in styling out of all the Sports collections, but having said that it is still quite versatile, as Longines has managed to add elegance to their sports, which makes sense in keeping with the whole “Elegance is An Attitude” thing.
The HydroConquest Chronograph XL - those two letters at the end gives the game away doesn't it? One would say that 47mm doesn't warrant the XL tag any more, but this is also quite a chunky watch, and if you fit the non-tapering stainless steel bracelet to it, you could almost use it to tone your muscles. But size aside the overall proportion of the watch is excellent. This is also partly due to the use of the Valjoux 7753 movement, (a tri-compax version of the 7750) giving the dial much needed balance. And the way the lugs are shaped it sits very nicely on smaller wrists. It will look big, but it won't feel like you've strapped a clock/dinner plate onto your wrist.
Speaking of 7753 movements there are a couple of gripes I have with this movement. One, the crown to hand turning ratio is not very high, (setting the time, for example) even compared to the 7750! It's like riding a bike on the highest gear. You get calluses on your thumb and forefinger from winding the crown so much and yet the hands don't seem to have moved any closer to the desired time.
Two, the external pusher needed to change the date at 9:00 position. Why? What's wrong with 2 positions on the crown? Surely moving a subdial from 12:00 to 3:00 position doesn't warrant that many changes? But, to be fair, you'll only notice this if you don't wear the watch every day... If it's a daily watch then none of this would've mattered... Other than that, it's an extremely reliable movement. It's tough and will last a lifetime provided you take good care of it. I also have no doubts regarding its accuracy. From experience even the cheapest versions of the 7750 are ridiculously accurate. If not, any good watchmaker will be able to quickly regulate it to a very high level of accuracy.
Others will say that the date window at 4:30 is neither here nor there, but this, surprisingly, doesn't bother me one bit. It's not an ideal place for it, but definite not the worst.
Ok, back to the watch itself. Case construction is simple, but solid and robust. Love the raised numbers on the bezel, giving it a premium look and feel. The whole watch reminds me of a Rolex Yachtmaster on steroids.
The chronograph pushers are flush with the crown guard, which is a big
plus, but the way they're angled does make using them a little tricky.
The screw-in case back features a giant medallion-like
hourglass-with-wings logo, which reminds me of the Omega Seahorse
medallion case back of the planet oceans. Love it. The hands are well balanced and the lume is good enough.
The watch is rated to 300m, and it does have a screw-in crown. However, the pushers aren't and I have my doubts about the 300m. I'm sure it's fine but I'm not game enough to try.
Overall it's not a watch that will appeal to everyone, but if you like your big watches, you could do much worse. It is striking and attention grabbing. Its 24mm lugs makes it perfect for perennial strap changers as this is the same width as Panerais and the choices of straps for this size is as numerous as the sand on the beach. A fat, thick strap goes especially well with the chunky case, and stops it from being overly top heavy. The watch is shipped with either the steel bracelet or the rubber strap (which is extremely long) but personally I feel a nice aftermarket dark brown strap suits best. At a list price of $3300 AUD it's extremely great value (yes even at full retail), given the amount of watch you get, regardless of the brand.
SPECS
Reference: L3.665.4.76.2 (on black rubber strap)
Case: Stainless steel case, Sapphire crystal with a single layer of antireflective coating on the underside; screw-down case-back and screw-in crown.
Diameter: 47.5 mm
Water-resistant to 300 metres (1000 feet)
Movement: L696 self-winding mechanical movement at 28,800 vph, approx 46 hours of power reserve.
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock.
Chronograph: central 60 seconds, 30 minutes counter at 3 o'clock and 12 hour counter at 6 o'clock.
Dial: Silver "sunray" Big "12" Arabic numeral at 12 o'clock and 11 Superluminova luminescent dots. Silvered hands with Superluminova luminescent material.
The watch is rated to 300m, and it does have a screw-in crown. However, the pushers aren't and I have my doubts about the 300m. I'm sure it's fine but I'm not game enough to try.
Overall it's not a watch that will appeal to everyone, but if you like your big watches, you could do much worse. It is striking and attention grabbing. Its 24mm lugs makes it perfect for perennial strap changers as this is the same width as Panerais and the choices of straps for this size is as numerous as the sand on the beach. A fat, thick strap goes especially well with the chunky case, and stops it from being overly top heavy. The watch is shipped with either the steel bracelet or the rubber strap (which is extremely long) but personally I feel a nice aftermarket dark brown strap suits best. At a list price of $3300 AUD it's extremely great value (yes even at full retail), given the amount of watch you get, regardless of the brand.
SPECS
Reference: L3.665.4.76.2 (on black rubber strap)
Case: Stainless steel case, Sapphire crystal with a single layer of antireflective coating on the underside; screw-down case-back and screw-in crown.
Diameter: 47.5 mm
Water-resistant to 300 metres (1000 feet)
Movement: L696 self-winding mechanical movement at 28,800 vph, approx 46 hours of power reserve.
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock.
Chronograph: central 60 seconds, 30 minutes counter at 3 o'clock and 12 hour counter at 6 o'clock.
Dial: Silver "sunray" Big "12" Arabic numeral at 12 o'clock and 11 Superluminova luminescent dots. Silvered hands with Superluminova luminescent material.
n The Wrist: TW Steel Cool Black Colour Red
As you probably all know, marketing doesn't come cheap. Building a brand up from nothing, now... I shudder to think what that would cost. And the cost is not only associated with dollar signs. It's also time, effort, manpower... it's a lot of things. Which is why it's all the more astonishing what TW Steel has managed to do with such a short space of time. How short, you ask? It's less than 10 years. There are older watch brands that does not have as much brand recognition and reach. Their watches are now available in over 100 countries and around 5000 points of sales. Those figures are darn impressive.
All that money must come from somewhere right? So they must be ripping everyone off with their watches, you say. Surprisingly, no. TW Steel watches are quite reasonably priced, with most of their range of watches in the low to mid 3 figures. And they're not skimping on quality either. Watches are made from 316L stainless steel and movement wise you're looking at either Japanese Miyota movements or Swiss Ronda movements. What they don't tell you is where the watches are made. And apart from their "Swiss Made" range, there's no prizes for guessing which country might be producing their watches.
Of course, the finger pointers will then point to the derivative style and accuse them of copying U-Boat, which produces overpriced (to some) canteen-style watches. But then again, perhaps they also, need to be accused of copying canteen-style watches from back in WWII? And besides, the canteen style is only one of the lines of watches TW Steel produces. Granted they're not breaking any new ground in design, but you have to admit that across their range of oversized watches they have taken on an identity of their own.
Personally I feel that TW Steel has been very smart in making their marketing budget work smarter. One of which was picking up (presumably) cheap advertising space on the Renault Formula 1 cars after some unpleasantness with the team and then more recently, put their stickers on the Force India team (who also presumably were having a fire sale on their ad space since they need money). I think a good part of their success comes down to how well they have marketed the brand, and really pushed the brand into the general (hip) public's consciousness. If someone ever writes a book on TW Steel's rise to prominence, I want a copy.
Well, enough about the company. How about them watches, really? Well, they're known for their oversized watches and they are true to their words. What's normally a men's size is relegated to their women's range, and if you don't have the cohones (or the wrist) you'll most likely find it quite difficult to pull off wearing their watches. I really liked one of their tonneau shaped watches (looks like the result of a Richard Mille/AP Royal Oak Offshore Chrono... ahem.. rendez-vous) but even with its curved back it just felt much too big, and no, I did not have the cohones to pull that one off. However, a 50mm round canteen style watch I could do, and this is the watch we're looking at today.
First, the negative. The massive crown kinda intrudes into the wrist (unless you're wearing this watch on the right wrist) and for your troubles, you get a tiny little crown with which to change the time and date. (That massive thing is just a cover. The actual crown is really, really tiny.) Good thing it's a quartz movement. I cannot imagine winding this thing up every day with that thing. This is only an issue with the Canteen line of watches. The rest of the range has a proper sized crown. The movement is also very small (well... the case is very big) so you have all the subdials of the chronograph kind of bunched in the middle. But the way the dial is designed, it's nicely balanced enough that you could forgive this little trespass.
Other than that, the case has a nice heft and feels like quality. All the markings on the subdials are symmetrical, and the dates disc is thankfully the same colour as the dial. The black leather strap it comes on is soft and comfortable on the wrist, but I'd opted for a NATO style strap just to give it a slightly different look. The watch did come with a spare colour matched red silicon strap, but it looked... let's just say it does the watch no favours. The movement in this watch is a Miyota chronograph OS20, which is accurate and robust enough. And should anything go wrong, they're also cheap enough to replace, so no issues there. Case is in 316L stainless steel and water resistant to 100m.
For the price, you do get literally a lot of watch for your money. It's a big, hefty piece and it's certainly not for everyone. But if you like the look and like big watches you could do a lot worse than a hockey puck of a watch on your wrist from the brand that's big in oversized watches.vedere di piu rolex orologi e Hermes Wealthcar
All that money must come from somewhere right? So they must be ripping everyone off with their watches, you say. Surprisingly, no. TW Steel watches are quite reasonably priced, with most of their range of watches in the low to mid 3 figures. And they're not skimping on quality either. Watches are made from 316L stainless steel and movement wise you're looking at either Japanese Miyota movements or Swiss Ronda movements. What they don't tell you is where the watches are made. And apart from their "Swiss Made" range, there's no prizes for guessing which country might be producing their watches.
Of course, the finger pointers will then point to the derivative style and accuse them of copying U-Boat, which produces overpriced (to some) canteen-style watches. But then again, perhaps they also, need to be accused of copying canteen-style watches from back in WWII? And besides, the canteen style is only one of the lines of watches TW Steel produces. Granted they're not breaking any new ground in design, but you have to admit that across their range of oversized watches they have taken on an identity of their own.
 |
| The design inspiration? U-Boat has the crown on the left so it doesn't dig into your wrist if you wear the watch on your left wrist... |
Personally I feel that TW Steel has been very smart in making their marketing budget work smarter. One of which was picking up (presumably) cheap advertising space on the Renault Formula 1 cars after some unpleasantness with the team and then more recently, put their stickers on the Force India team (who also presumably were having a fire sale on their ad space since they need money). I think a good part of their success comes down to how well they have marketed the brand, and really pushed the brand into the general (hip) public's consciousness. If someone ever writes a book on TW Steel's rise to prominence, I want a copy.
Well, enough about the company. How about them watches, really? Well, they're known for their oversized watches and they are true to their words. What's normally a men's size is relegated to their women's range, and if you don't have the cohones (or the wrist) you'll most likely find it quite difficult to pull off wearing their watches. I really liked one of their tonneau shaped watches (looks like the result of a Richard Mille/AP Royal Oak Offshore Chrono... ahem.. rendez-vous) but even with its curved back it just felt much too big, and no, I did not have the cohones to pull that one off. However, a 50mm round canteen style watch I could do, and this is the watch we're looking at today.
 |
| TW Steel Cool Black Colours - Red 50mm diametre |
First, the negative. The massive crown kinda intrudes into the wrist (unless you're wearing this watch on the right wrist) and for your troubles, you get a tiny little crown with which to change the time and date. (That massive thing is just a cover. The actual crown is really, really tiny.) Good thing it's a quartz movement. I cannot imagine winding this thing up every day with that thing. This is only an issue with the Canteen line of watches. The rest of the range has a proper sized crown. The movement is also very small (well... the case is very big) so you have all the subdials of the chronograph kind of bunched in the middle. But the way the dial is designed, it's nicely balanced enough that you could forgive this little trespass.
Other than that, the case has a nice heft and feels like quality. All the markings on the subdials are symmetrical, and the dates disc is thankfully the same colour as the dial. The black leather strap it comes on is soft and comfortable on the wrist, but I'd opted for a NATO style strap just to give it a slightly different look. The watch did come with a spare colour matched red silicon strap, but it looked... let's just say it does the watch no favours. The movement in this watch is a Miyota chronograph OS20, which is accurate and robust enough. And should anything go wrong, they're also cheap enough to replace, so no issues there. Case is in 316L stainless steel and water resistant to 100m.
 |
| I find khaki coloured zulu strap with black PVD rings goes best with this watch |
For the price, you do get literally a lot of watch for your money. It's a big, hefty piece and it's certainly not for everyone. But if you like the look and like big watches you could do a lot worse than a hockey puck of a watch on your wrist from the brand that's big in oversized watches.vedere di piu rolex orologi e Hermes Wealthcar
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